Wildfire Ready: How to Better Protect Your Property and Get Better Fire Service Protection
New Zealand has a wildfire problem that most property owners have not caught up with yet. Maximum Planning has prepared this document to aid in guidance for how to better prepare your property against Wildfire Risk.
Fire and Emergency New Zealand attended 4,211 vegetation fires in the year to June 2024, burning 4,166 hectares. The Lake Ohau fire in 2020 destroyed 48 homes and more than 5,000 hectares, the largest structure loss from a single fire in New Zealand since 1918. The 2024 Port Hills fire forced the evacuation of 110 properties on the edge of Christchurch. None of those were remote wilderness events. They were fires in places where people live.
The good news is that whether a house survives a wildfire is largely decided long before the fire arrives, and most of the decisions are cheap. This guide covers the two halves of the job.
Half one: making your house and the ground around it hard to ignite.
Half two: making sure a fire appliance can physically reach your property and find water when it gets there. This second half is the one almost everyone forgets, and it is the one that planning rules actually bite on.
Resources we recommend you review:
Disclaimer: This article is general information drawn from Fire and Emergency New Zealand’s Wildfire Safer Housing Guide (August 2022), SNZ PAS 4509:2008 New Zealand Fire Service Firefighting Water Supplies Code of Practice, and FireSmart Canada guidance. SNZ PAS 4509:2008 is under review, and district and regional plan requirements vary by council. This is not a substitute for site specific planning or fire engineering advice. This is a guide only and Maximum Planning takes no responsibility for the actions taken by property owners nor any potential damages. It is highly recommended the reader consults the relevant professional for further advice/information.
First, understand how houses typically burn
Most people picture a wall of flame rolling over a house which causes the house to burn down. That is rarely what happens.
Fire and Emergency’s Wildfire Safer Housing Guide is clear on this. Embers can travel more than two kilometres ahead of a fire, and sometimes considerably further (up to 30-35km) in strong upper winds. Those embers land on your roof, in your gutters, under your deck, against your cladding and in your garden beds. They start small fires. If a small fire finds fuel, it grows, breaks into the building envelope, and the house is gone.
The one idea that matters Give embers nowhere to land and nothing to catch. Get that right and you have dealt with the most common way houses are lost. Everything below is a version of that single idea. |
Figure 1: The eight places embers most often find a way in.
The three zones around your house
The FireSmart approach used in Canada, and now widely applied in New Zealand, splits the ground around your house into three zones. Work outwards, and put your money and effort closest to the house first.
Figure 2: The immediate, intermediate and extended zones, and what belongs in each.
Immediate zone, 0 to 1.5 metres
This strip does more for your house than anything else on the property.
Strip vegetation back to mineral soil and replace it with gravel, pavers, brick or concrete
No bark mulch, no woody shrubs, no climbers on the walls
Move firewood stacks, gas bottles, wheelie bins, recycling and stored timber well away
Keep decks, patio furniture cushions and doormats clear when fire season sets in
Clean gutters and the roof, and clear debris from re-entrant corners where leaves collect
Intermediate zone, 1.5 to 10 metres
Low, well watered, well spaced planting only. No continuous run of shrubs leading to the house
No woody debris, no piles of prunings, no long dry grass
Sheds, trailers, boats and caravans moved out to the extended zone, or sitting on gravel or concrete
Keep outbuildings at least 6 metres from the house, or build them with fire rated construction
Extended zone, 10 to 30 metres
Thin trees so there is at least 3 metres between crowns
Prune lower branches to about 2 metres above the ground so a grass fire cannot climb into the canopy
Mow, and keep clearing fallen branches, needles and dry litter
If your zone overlaps a neighbour’s, do the work together. Wildfire does not respect boundaries
Hardening or Fire Smarting the house itself
Fire and Emergency’s guide sets out where houses actually fail. These are the highest value items.
Roof. The most vulnerable part of any house because of its size and orientation. Use non-combustible materials such as steel, clay tile or concrete tile. Avoid butynol, rubber compounds and untreated timber. Simple roof shapes beat complex ones, because every valley and junction is a place for debris to collect. Fit birdstops at the ridge and eaves so windblown debris cannot get under the roof covering.
Gutters and eaves. Metal gutters and downpipes, metal leaf guards, and a soffited (boxed in) eave rather than an open eave. Open eaves are a direct entry point for embers.
Vents. Every vent is a hole into your wall or roof cavity. Use non-combustible, corrosion resistant vents with metal mesh. A 6 mm mesh is the maximum, 3 mm is a common compromise, and 1.5 mm stops the most embers but needs regular cleaning. Keep vents at least 500 mm above ground level and at least 3 metres from other buildings and boundaries. Avoid whirlybirds and dormer style through roof vents.
Windows. Glass is the weak point, not the frame. Double or triple glazing performs far better than single glazing, because the inner pane usually survives even when the outer one breaks. Tempered glass is three to four times more heat resistant than ordinary float glass. Avoid vinyl frames, which deform. Metal shutters or screens with a maximum 2 mm aperture add real protection.
Doors. Gaps smaller than 2 mm, non-combustible sills, draught seals, and doors that can be opened from the inside without a key.
Cladding. Brick, stucco, fibre cement, concrete, block or stone all perform well. Avoid vinyl. Keep at least 150 mm of clearance between the ground and where any combustible cladding starts, and seal every gap and joint.
Decks and subfloors. Timber decks are one of the most common failure points. Enclose the base of the house and the deck with fire resistant skirting or metal mesh, never wooden lattice. Extend a non-combustible surface such as pavers or gravel 1.5 metres out from the deck and under it. Store nothing flammable underneath, and make sure you can get under there to sweep out debris.
Gas. Keep fixed gas cylinders at least 10 metres from vegetation and flammable material, chain them to something solid, use metal fittings, and point the pressure relief valve away from the house.
Getting a fire truck to your door
Here is the part that gets skipped. A hardened or fire smarted house is worth much less if a crew cannot reach it. When time matters, the fire service are less likely to try and protect a house if they know that it hasn't been hardened or fire smarted and it's going to consume a lot of resources that they don't have. Give your property the best chance of being saved by fire smarting your property so that it's easier for the fire service to save.
New Zealand fire appliances are large, heavy vehicles. A typical fully laden appliance weighs up to 20 tonnes. Crews are less likely to commit a truck down a driveway they cannot easily escape out of, cross a bridge they do not trust, or drive under a tree canopy that is on fire.
Figure 3: How the access, hardstand, coupling and tank need to sit in relation to each other.
The benchmark used across New Zealand is the New Zealand Fire Service Firefighting Water Supplies Code of Practice, SNZ PAS 4509:2008. Its access requirements are the practical checklist for any rural or hill property.
Requirement | Standard |
Access width | 4 metres minimum |
Height clearance | 4 metres minimum |
Maximum gradient | 16 per cent |
Hardstand for the appliance | 4.5 m wide by 11 m long |
Hardstand load capacity | 20 tonnes, fully laden appliance |
Hardstand position | Within 5 metres of the water supply coupling |
On top of the numbers, deal with the practical items.
Trim the canopy. Four metres of vertical clearance the whole way in, not just at the gate
Turning. A truck must be able to turn around or drive through. A long dead end driveway with no turning head is a serious problem
Bridges and culverts. Confirm and, ideally, sign the weight capacity. If a crew does not know, they will assume the worst
Gates. Wide enough for the appliance, and either unlocked in fire season or fitted with a lock the fire service can get through
Your number. Make sure your RAPID number is clearly visible from the road. Crews cannot save a property they cannot find
Keep the driveway itself clear of long grass and overhanging scrub, because your driveway is also your escape route
Water the Fire Service can actually use
A fire appliance carries a limited amount of water, approx. 1,500 litres, with water tankers/tenders carrying up to 3,000-12,500 litres. On a rural property with no reticulated hydrant network, whatever is on your site is what the crew has to work with. The more water they have available, the better chances of protecting the property.
How much water does the fire service actually need?
Under SNZ PAS 4509:2008, a standard house without sprinklers falls in classification FW2 and needs a static supply of 45,000 litres dedicated to firefighting. Where a compliant residential sprinkler system is installed, the house drops to FW1 and the dedicated requirement falls to 7,000 litres. Some councils will accept a lower volume under a local agreement, so always confirm the figure with your territorial authority before you buy a tank.
The other requirements matter just as much as the volume.
Distance. The coupling must be no more than 90 metres from the building it protects
Separation. The supply must be no closer than 6 metres to any fire hazard
Coupling. A 100 mm female suction coupling for tanks, or a 70 mm female instantaneous coupling for flooded sources, complying with SNZ PAS 4505
Portable pumps. Fire and Emergency asks for space to position a portable pump within 5 metres of the supply, with access into the water
Materials. Non-combustible tank, stand and pipework. Metal or concrete tanks, or a buried tank. Any above ground pipework and fittings should be metal
Gravity beats pumps. Where the terrain allows it, a gravity fed supply keeps working when the power goes out
If you rely on a pump, protect it from radiant heat and embers, and give it a fuel tank large enough that nobody has to refuel it mid event
Full tank, not just a big tank Size the tank for everything you might need it for at once, and make sure it is actually full going into fire season. A 45,000 litre tank that is also your drinking water, and has been drawn down over a dry February, is not a 45,000 litre firefighting supply. |
External sprinkler systems are worth considering as part of a wider approach, but they are not a substitute for the measures above. They cannot protect roof cavities, wall cavities or subfloors, and they need independent water and power to be useful when it matters.
Where planning rules come into it
This is where a lot of owners get caught, and it is worth understanding before you commit to a design.
Firefighting water supply and emergency service access are not just good practice. In many parts of New Zealand they are rule requirements. District plans commonly require compliance with SNZ PAS 4509 as a condition of subdivision or of a new dwelling outside a reticulated supply area. Fire and Emergency New Zealand is regularly consulted on subdivision applications and can be treated as an affected party.
Common triggers we deal with:
Subdivision. New rural or lifestyle lots almost always need a demonstrated firefighting water supply and compliant access for each lot
New dwellings outside town. Building on a site with no hydrant nearby usually means a tank, a coupling and a hardstand shown on the plans
Long or steep driveways. Access that fails the 4 m by 4 m, 16 per cent test can require consent, engineering, or a redesign
Natural hazard overlays. A growing number of district plans identify wildfire risk directly, and some now attach specific rules to it
Consent conditions. Water supply and access conditions are frequently imposed at consent stage and must be certified before section 224 or code compliance.
The expensive version of this is discovering it after the design is fixed and the earthworks are done. The cheap version is a planning check at the start, where a tank position, a wider turning bay or a shifted building platform costs nothing to move on paper.
Note that SNZ PAS 4509:2008 is currently being updated. Always work from the current version and confirm your council’s requirements, because they vary.
Your pre-season Wildfire Smarting checklist
Print this and walk the property with it before every summer.
The house
□ Gutters and roof cleared of leaves and needles
□ Vents and screens intact, clean and correctly meshed
□ Gaps around windows, doors and cladding sealed
□ Nothing combustible stored under the deck or house
□ Chimney spark arrester fitted and clear
The grounds
□ 0 to 1.5 m strip is bare gravel, paving or concrete
□ Firewood, gas bottles and bins moved at least 10 m away
□ Trees thinned to 3 m crown spacing, lower branches pruned to 2 m
□ Grass mowed, prunings removed, no debris piles
□ Outbuildings at least 6 m from the house
Access
□ Driveway 4 m wide and 4 m clear overhead, the whole way
□ Turning area or through route for a 20 tonne appliance
□ Bridge or culvert capacity known and signposted
□ Gates wide, and openable by the fire service
□ RAPID number visible from the road
Firefighting Water Supply
□ Dedicated firefighting supply in place and full
□ Correct coupling fitted and accessible
□ Hardstand within 5 m of the coupling, and the coupling within 90 m of the house
□ Pump protected, fuelled and tested
□ Everyone in the household knows where it all is
Frequently asked questions
How much water do I need on site for firefighting in New Zealand?
Under SNZ PAS 4509:2008 a standard house without sprinklers needs a dedicated static supply of 45,000 litres. If a compliant residential sprinkler system is installed, that drops to 7,000 litres. Some councils accept a reduced volume under a local agreement, so confirm with your territorial authority.
How wide does my driveway need to be for a fire truck?
A minimum of 4 metres wide and 4 metres of height clearance, with a maximum gradient of 16 per cent, and a hardstand of 4.5 m by 11 m able to carry a 20 tonne appliance. A turning area is essential on a dead end driveway.
How far can the water tank be from the house?
The coupling must be no more than 90 metres from the building being protected, and no closer than 6 metres to any fire hazard.
Do I need a resource consent to put in a firefighting water tank?
Usually not for the tank itself, although height, setback and rural amenity rules can apply in some district plans. The more common situation is the reverse: your subdivision or land use consent requires a compliant supply as a condition.
Does my subdivision need a firefighting water supply for every lot?
In most rural and lifestyle situations, yes. District plan rules commonly require compliance with SNZ PAS 4509 for each new lot outside a reticulated supply area, and the requirement is generally secured by a consent condition.
What is the single most effective thing I can do?
Clear the first 1.5 metres around the house completely and keep the roof and gutters free of debris. Most houses are lost to embers finding small fuels close to the building, not to a flame front hitting the walls.
Are external sprinklers worth it?
They can help as one part of a wider approach, but they cannot protect roof cavities, wall cavities or subfloor spaces, and they need independent water and power to work during a fire. Treat them as an addition to a hardened house, not a replacement for one.
Do the Fire and Emergency recommendations override the Building Code?
No. The Wildfire Safer Housing Guide is voluntary guidance that sits on top of your Building Code and district plan obligations. You still need to comply with everything else that applies.
Planning a build or subdivision in a fire prone area? Wildfire risk, firefighting water supply and emergency service access are planning issues as much as they are building issues, and they are far cheaper to solve on a plan than on a site. Maximum Planning has delivered more than 500 planning projects across New Zealand. We prepare wildfire risk assessments, and we deal with SNZ PAS 4509 water supply and access requirements routinely in rural subdivision and land use consents. Our director is a former volunteer firefighter, so this is not theory for us. If you are subdividing, building rurally, or you have just been handed a consent condition about firefighting water supply and you are not sure what it means, we can tell you exactly where you stand. Book a free 30 minute consultation. maximumplanning.org/contact | 022 403 5431 |
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